Sushi
Sushi originated as “narezushi,” and was made (long ago) by packing a fish (often carp) in rice, and allowing it to ferment for months. The rice was later discarded. During the Edo period (1603–1867), vinegar was being used instead of fermented rice. As a result, the dish could not be kept as long. Most popular at the time was Kansai-style oshizushi, presented in a box: fish at the bottom, covered by sushi rice, pressed with a lid, and then “unboxed” into a block, which was then cut.
Edo (江戸) means “bay entrance,” and it was the “old” name of Tokyo. “Edomae sushi,” therefore, can mean sushi sold from in front of the gates of the city, or in front of Tokyo Bay. Nigirizushi, which is what we associate the word “sushi” with today, began as a fast food sold from food stalls in the late Edo period and is therefore also known as “Edomae sushi.”
In those days, the fish used was locally caught, so salmon, which is very popular today (see below) and is usually imported from Norway, was excluded. To prevent spoilage (there was no refrigeration), some fish, including tuna, were marinated in diluted soy sauce (which is why we still use soy sauce today). Additionally, back then, the rice portion was significantly larger than it is today, and it was often eaten with the hands.
American vs Japanese
American sushi often differs significantly from authentic Japanese sushi, and with few exceptions, the most popular items in Japan are different from those in the United States. Some of the types you may encounter in Japan:
- Pacific bluefin tuna - akami, chutoro, otoro, negitoro
- Atlantic salmon - sāmon and harasu
- Salmon roe - ikura
- Black tiger prawn - ebi
- Cuttlefish - mongo-ika
- Yellowtail - hamachi, kampachi, hiramasa, tsubasu, buri
- Sea Bream - Tai
- Sea urchin - uni
- Yesso Scallop - hotate
- Conger eel - anago
- Olive flounder - engawa
- Sweet shrimp - ama-ebi
It is also worth noting that nigiri sushi is typically eaten differently in Japan than in the US. In Japan, you always dip just the fish, not the rice, in soy sauce. That means you either pick up nigiri with your hand, turn it over, and dip, or, when using chopsticks, you have to flip it over a quarter turn on the plate, then grip it and turn it another quarter turn in the air before dipping.
In the US, many people dip their rice in soy sauce. If this is not done quickly, the rice will fall apart, as can often be observed. Additionally, US consumers typically use significantly more soy sauce than the Japanese method would. And, finally, there is the topic of Wasabi.
Wasabi is a condiment traditionally made from the rhizome (underground stem) of Wasabia japonica and is a staple of Japanese cuisine. Wasabi, in Japan, may be added to nigiri sushi (sometimes you are asked, “Wasabi ok?”: Hai!). It is placed under the fish before it is placed on the rice. At other times, it may be served on the side, and you can spread some on top of the fish. What is never done in Japan is dumping wasabi into soy sauce and mixing it. Doing so in Japan distinctly marks you as a Gaijin. In the US, what is presented as Wasabi is rarely fresh or authentic Wasabi!
Pacific Bluefin Tuna
The “king” of tuna. The lean parts are called akami. The medium fatty parts are called chutoro, and the fatty belly part is called otoro. You may also encounter negitoro, which means “minced fatty tuna” (the “toro” part of the name) with green onion (the “negi” part of the name).
Negitoro is often scraped from the bones of tuna, and that is how we ate it at Maguro Mart (マグロマート).
The breakdown (slicing) of a large bluefin requires skill and very large weapons (knives). It can occasionally be seen at the Tsukiji Outer Market (築地場外市場) (and we did).
Maguro
Maguro is the Japanese (generic) word for tuna; all kinds of tuna. Some of those types are bluefin (hon maguro), yellowfin (kihada), bigeye (mebachi), and albacore (binnaga). Ordering maguro in the US means you may not know exactly which type of tuna you will receive. In Japan, bluefin tuna is called “hon maguro.”
Kama-toro refers to the jaw or “collar” (which is meaty and very delicious grilled). Zuke refers to marinated tuna, and Meiji is “baby” tuna.
White tuna
This does not actually exist, but some US spots serve Escolar under that name. Sometimes also Butterfish.
Amberjack
There are different kinds of Amberjack, discussed below.
Hiramasa (Yellowtail Amberjack)
This “true” yellowtail can grow as large as 6 ft, and is found in the Southern Ocean. While it is being farmed, it is not as popular as Hamachi or Buri.
Hamachi and Buri (Japanese Amberjack)
Hamachi is a type of yellowtail, and the name refers to the young yellowtail (in Japan, not necessarily in the US). The young ones are often farm-raised, resulting in a lighter color, and their meat is softer and fattier. Mature yellowtail is called Buri, and is usually caught wild. It has a stronger and fattier taste than Hamachi. The term “Hamachi” is used around Kyoto, while in Tokyo, the same fish is called “Inada.”
In the US, you may encounter “yellowtail” and get true Japanese amberjack, or you might get “kampachi” or “kanpachi”.
Kanpachi (Greater Amberjack)
This, sometimes also called “kampachi,” is a larger fish and a powerful swimmer. Consequently, its flesh is firmer than Hamachi, with a lighter color. Thus, its flesh is “springier,” compared to the buttery texture of true “hamachi.”
Eel (Anago or Unagi)
Two kinds of eel are encountered in Japan. One is a saltwater eel, called “Conger eel,” or “anago,” while the other is a river eel called “unagi.” We had Conger eel as nigiri shushi, and while not as flavorful as unagi, it was very soft and buttery. We liked it enough to order seconds.
We also had unagi, prepared in different ways, but it was never served as Sushi. Preparing unagi typically involves steaming and then grilling multiple times, sometimes followed by a bath in a slightly sweet sauce, and grilling again. Prepared in this way, with the sauce, you may encounter it in US Sushi shops. Although it is intended to be served warm on top of the rice, many shops fail to do so, resulting in a mediocre item. I have personally never encountered a Conger eel in US Sushi shops.
A common, but not inexpensive, way to eat Unagi is as part of a meal where it is served in a rectangular box over rice. Often, the eel covers all the rice. We had this too, and it was fabulous.
Flounder
We have encountered this raw, as very thinly sliced sashimi, as well as cooked (or slightly torched), served as nigiri. In its raw form, it has little taste but is a little chewy (the Japanese seem to savor a variety of textures). In the cooked form, it is very buttery and rich.
Salmon
We did not see this nearly as often in Japan as in the US, where it is commonly called “Sake.” In Japan, “Sake” refers to both salmon (鮭) and sake (酒), the Japanese rice wine (they are pronounced ever so slightly differently). In the context of sushi, “sake” most commonly refers to salmon (鮭), often specifically Atlantic salmon, which is a popular choice for nigiri and sashimi. When you order “sake” sushi, you’re likely getting nigiri sushi with salmon.
In Japanese, the salmon form “sake” (鮭) outside of the sushi context, particularly refers to Pacific salmon, like chum salmon (shiro sake). Atlantic salmon is used almost exclusively for sushi, because Pacific salmon can carry a parasite and requires freezing treatment to make it safe. When used for sushi, it is referred to, phonetically, as “salmon,” and not “sake,” and you may also encounter “harasu” (fattier salmon belly). In fact, it almost always means Norwegian salmon. When you order “sake” for sushi in the US, you may get the Atlantic kind or previously flash-frozen Pacific salmon.
Salmon Roe (Ikura)
The roe from salmon (ikura) comes in small, orange balls, typically measuring about 3-4 mm in diameter. They are often seen as toppings, but sometimes served by themselves as well.
Sea Bream (Tai)
We often saw this in Japan. We don’t typically see this in the US. When we do it, it is usually called Red Snapper or even Tilapia. However, it is not the same as Sea Bream. Some people also mistakenly refer to Sea Bream as Hamachi (a young Yellowtail), and vice versa.
Sea Urchin (Uni)
We never ate this during our trip, perhaps because it is a pricey item. We did see it on offer at retailers in the Tsukiji outer market.
Shrimp
Shrimp is often seen as (Black) Tiger Prawns, or as sweet shrimp (ama-ebi). Served as nigiri sushi, both tiger prawn and ebi are usually cooked, but ebi can be served raw.
Squid and cuttlefish (Ika)
You may encounter both squid and cuttlefish. Both can be referred to as “Ika.”, but cuttlefish is also referred to as “Mongo-ika.”