...A large WNW swell will continue to impact the coast through
The very large, very long period WNW swell that arrived late
Sunday has decreased both in terms of period and overall wave
height but will remain large enough to be a coastal hazard through
the day Tuesday. A high surf advisory is in effect through 5 PM
Tuesday. Large breaking waves in the surf zone with coastal run
up will continue to be a hazard even as the waves diminish through
the day. Looking ahead, swells are expected to increase again
around Wednesday night as another large swell train arrives.
...HIGH SURF ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 5 PM PST THIS
* WAVES AND SURF...A large WNW swell of 14 to 18 feet at 15 to 17
seconds will create breakers of 15 to 25 feet. Locally larger
breakers are possible at favored break points along the coast.
* TIMING...Wave energy has peaked and will remain large but
* IMPACTS...Large breaking waves along the coast will lead to
increased wave run-up on beaches with waves topping and washing
over large rocks and jetties. These waves can easily move large
logs and other beach debris and cause localized beach erosion.
Use extreme caution near the surf zone as these large waves will
be capable of sweeping people into the frigid and turbulent
ocean water. Cold water shock may cause cardiac arrest, and it
also can cause an involuntary gasp reflex causing drowning, even
for a good swimmer. The surf zone will be very dangerous due to
strong currents and powerful breaking waves.
A High Surf Advisory Means That High Surf Will Affect Beaches In
The Advisory area...producing rip currents and localized beach